Niacinamide: is a higher concentration better?

Key points

1. (1).

   In a 2002 study, niacinamide did not reduce pigment production itself but blocked the transfer of pigment packets to neighboring cells by 35–68%, which is why it does not act right away on pigment already in the upper layers.

2. (2).

   A 2002 study of 18 Japanese women and a 2005 split-face study of 50 white women (5%, twice daily for 12 weeks) showed improvements in spots, fine lines and red blotchiness, but both were small and involved manufacturer researchers.

3. (3).

   In a safety assessment, cosmetic use levels ranged from 0.0001% to 3% and no stinging was reported in clinical tests up to 10%, but no study comparing 10% or 20% against 5% could be found.

4. (4).

   Many people feel stinging with high-strength products because of other factors too, such as formula pH, added acids or alcohol, thin areas like around the eyes, and an already damaged barrier, and irritation is itself inflammation that can lead to pigmentation.

5. (5).

   No study linking niacinamide to increased fine facial hair could be found, but that is not proof that it never happens.

When to see a doctor

If you have actually noticed changes in hair growth, see a dermatologist, since other causes such as hormones need to be checked, not just the products you apply.

FAQ

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